Wine Enthusiast 95 points - The barrel-matured Moreau 2008 Chablis Les Clos des Hospices - as usual, issuing from a single sweet spot in the Clos - displays smoky toasty notes from barrel that segue relatively harmoniously into the fusil crushed stone character associated with the terroir. Musky floral and blond tobacco notes add allure. This is not showing more than marginal heat and is plush and texturally seamless rather than in the least rough; nevertheless, one is aware of higher alcohol as well as more wood, especially when compared with the soaring elegance and levity of the corresponding Blanchots or relative cut and transparency of the “regular” Les Clos. This preserves stony as well as bitter-sweet length but hasn’t the juiciness, intricacy, or depth of its close sibling. I find it hard to doubt - given the superb quality of that “regular” Les Clos bottling - that the Clos des Hospices fruit, had it been vinified in the same manner, would have turned out spectacularly. Similarly, I find it hard to believe - nor have tastings of the few earlier vintages of this bottling altered my impression - that this will ever outgrow a certain awkwardness due to its wood.
Wine Spectator 94 points - Bright yellow. Outstanding musky complexity to the aromas of lemon, minerals, toast and smoke; smells almost sweet. More massive than the "regular" Clos, offering superb richness, sweetness and energy in the mouth, with little obvious sign of its history of oak. But this large-scaled grand cru is more muscular and less silky than the regular Clos. Finishes with terrific length, ripeness and verve.
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2008 MOREAU CHRISTIAN CHABLIS CLOS DES HOSPICES GRAND CRU
"This Grand Cru within a Grand Cru is a magnificent, opulent wine. It has all the power of a great white Burgundy, the richness allied to minerality and then given weight by toast, yellow fruits and a pure, straight line of acidity." Wine Enthusiast 95 points Drink 2015-30
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