Vinous 90 points - We start with a side-by-side comparison of Bollinger’s 2002 and 2004 Vieilles Vignes Francaises, one of my favorite Champagnes. The 2002 is spectacular, as it always is. Rich, warm and resonant, the 2002 covers the palate with seemingly endless layers of burnished, honeyed fruit and the most finessed, subtle mousse imaginable. I don’t see the 2002 making old bones, but it is flat-out great tonight. The 2004, on the other hand, is disappointing. More advanced in its flavors and with quite a bit less structure than the 2002, the 2004 is already maturing and needs to be enjoyed sooner rather than later.
Get a taste of Champagne in bygone days: a very small production from miraculously preserved and un-grafted vines, grown the traditional way.