Wine & Spirits 93 points - It’s hard to resist the texture of this wine, its smooth richness feeling as if it were carved out of pale white stone. Part of that is the oak in which it was aged, but the oak doesn’t dominate the wine, which settles in with mouthwatering orange and tangerine flavors and resonant, stony depths. “The winemaker wanted to go Montrachet with it,” one taster noted, as if to complain that it wasn’t recognizably gruner veltliner. But it is gruner veltliner in one of its wildest and most elegant forms. Spend some time with the wine and that elegance becomes ever clearer, as it will if you age this for five or six years.