Creaminess and smokiness seem to dominate the nose on this wine while lemony flashes spell freshness. The palate expands into a fragrant cloud of chalk, cream and mellowness, surrounded by gentle smokiness and lemon brightness. It's alluring and precise.

Plush, with a creamy texture wrapped around butterscotch, peach, apple tart and lemon aromas and flavors. Racy acidity drives the finish, which is complex, balanced and long. Should be terrific when the two halves harmonize. Best from 2021 through 2028. 50 cases imported.

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Clavoillons 1er Cru is open-knit, airy and very easy to like. Tangerine oil, white flowers, mint and a kiss of new French oak give this silky, inviting Puligny 1er Cru quite a bit of immediacy and appeal. Light tropical inflections develop as the wine opens up in the glass. I would give the 2017 a few years in bottle. If opened young, the 2017 benefits from aeration, which softens the contours and allows the natural radiance of the fruit to emerge.