This linear, almost racy red is bisected by a beam of cherry, strawberry and currant, with iron, earth and eucalyptus playing supporting roles. Firms up as it builds to the long, expansive finish, yet its lasting impression is ripe fruit. Complex and intense. Best from 2025 through 2043. 300 cases made, 20 cases imported.

The Camigliano 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Paesaggio Inatteso shows a more balanced approach to this challenging vintage. I've always liked the concept of this wine, or of the hidden beauty of the Montalcino landscape, as the wine name "unexpected landscapes" suggests. It is well suited to Camigliano, which is quite literally tucked away in its own magical corner of the appellation with wide horizons and sun-drenched hills. This special selection of fruit (in a 3,800-bottle release) shows a ripe side with dark cherry and blackberry, but it ends with velvety, pliant tannins that are good for near and medium-term drinking.

Wild strawberries, peppery herbs, crushed stone and hints of animal musk define the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino Paesaggio Inatteso. It's silky-smooth with a pleasant inner sweetness, as waves of ripe, mineral- tinged berries cascade across the palate. Rosy inner florals, hints of leather and savory spices linger long over a subtle coating of fine tannins. This shows admirable balance and upfront appeal, making the Paesaggio Inatteso an excellent choice for short-term cellaring.