Beeswax, flint, dried pineapples and dried lemons on the nose. Builds in concentration on the palate, with a medium body, tangy acidity and lengthy tart citrus and flinty layers. Drink now or hold.

The 2019 Chablis Grenouilles Château Grenouilles Grand Cru has an austere, quite zen-like bouquet, very well defined, although I would like more fruit to develop. It is almost too distant at the moment. The palate is well balanced on the entry and quite saline, malic at first, followed by a spicy, Les Preuses-like note that surfaces toward the finish. Good length. This should drink well for at least a decade.

A lemon- and floral-flavored white marked by flashes of mint and vanilla. Rich, then the lively structure emerges, ending with more precision and cut. Satisfying, if atypical. Drink now through 2026. 198 cases imported.