The 2022 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru on this encounter was so pure and suave that one might have mistaken it for the Clos Saint-Denis. Offering up aromas of raspberries, cherries, sweet spices, orange zest and peony, it's full-bodied, supple and seamless, with a deep core of fruit, sweet, powdery tannins and a long, sapid finish. There is more underlying muscle and tannin here, however, and I would be surprised to see that assert itself a little more obviously in bottle.

The 2022 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru has a little more intensity on the nose than the Clos Saint-Denis: principally black fruit laced with hints of licorice and clove and veins of blueberry and cassis. The aromatics expand with aeration, gaining vigor all the time. The medium-bodied palate has grippy tannins and quite a bold structure but may not have the precision of the very best that I have encountered. Very saline on the aftertaste - this will require time to shave its edges in bottle.