The 2022 Puligny-Montrachet Chalumaux 1er Cru is much more expressive on the nose than the La Garenne, which is apparently always the way. Quince, Japanese yuzu and wilted yellow flowers infuse the citrus fruit, a hint of frangipane appears with aeration. The palate is very taut and concentrated on the entry, with fine acidity. It's slightly viscous in texture but holds on to Puligny DNA and fans out wonderfully on the finish. Superb.

Peach, lemon, pastry and toasty oak flavors highlight this earnest white. The vivid acidity takes over, focusing the citrus- and spice-filled finish, with fine length. Balanced, if a touch on the oaky side. Drink now through 2030. 100 cases imported.