Earthy aromas of mushroom and soy give an umami-laden edge to the cassis and dark fruits on the nose of this bottling. The palate is loaded with savory tones as well, showing dashi, shiitake and incense, as well as that tart raspberry-fruit flavor.

The ruby/plum-hued 2019 Pinot Noir John Sebastiano Vineyard comes from a site on the eastern end of the Sta. Rita Hills, which is warmer than sites located on the more western edge. All destemmed and aged 16 months in one-third new barrels, its semi-opaque ruby/plum hue is followed by a pretty, medium-bodied, nicely balanced Pinot Noir with lots of cherry and mulberry fruits, notes of leafy herbs, and forest floor, supple, elegant tannins, and a touch of salty minerality on the finish. Drink it any time over the coming 7-8 years.

Leads off with light menthol and savory notes, followed quickly by gently mulled raspberry and strawberry fruit flavors. The finish, which has some sneaky length, is underscored by red tea, sous-bois and mineral hints. Drink now through 2026. 427 cases made.

The 2019 Pinot Noir John Sebastiano Vineyard is a dark, virile wine. Leather, cedar, licorice, smoke and tobacco reinforce an impression of brooding intensity. There is plenty of power, but less in the way of finesse. The fruit profile is on the riper side, while the tannins are decidedly prominent. John Sebastiano is a pretty rugged site. So is this wine.