This firmly structured, focused red offers aromas of red berry, fragrant blue flowers, menthol, oak and spices. The assertive palate evokes cranberry, sour cherry, star anise, underbrush and orange zest set against tightly knit, close-grained tannins that leave a rather drying finish, while racy acidity lends balance. It's still tight and youthfully austere, so give it ample time to fully open up and develop. Drink 2026-2041.

Notable for its purity and supple texture, this red exhibits strawberry, cherry, currant and floral aromas and flavors, backed by a precise line of tannins. It feels balanced, if a little pinched by the tannins on the finish now. Best from 2023 through 2040. 1,000 cases made, 200 cases imported.

The 2016 Barbaresco Albesani Santo Stefano is powerful, ample and inviting, all while retaining a super-classic sense of mid-weight structure. Macerated cherry, kirsch, anise, pine, mint and dried rose petal nuances fill out nicely. The 2016 had enough juiciness to be approachable with minimal cellaring, but readers who prefer more nuance and complexity will surely want to cellar it for at least a few years.