Leather, grilled herb and dark-skinned fruit aromas lead the way. The smooth, solid palate offers Marasca cherry, star anise and toasted hazelnut alongside firm, polished tannins. Drink 2023-2032.

Here's a wine that vaunts its hot-vintage aromas of wild rose, cherry and red fruit in a careful and contained manner. The Giovanni Viberti 2017 Barolo Buon Padre draws its fruit from nine different vineyard sites: Bricco delle Viole, San Pietro, La Volta, Fossati, Alessandria, San Ponzi, Albarella, Ravera and Terlo. The results are balanced, and indeed this wine reveals more acidity or freshness than we see in most of its peers from the challenging 2017 vintage. That freshness gives the wine a greater sense of lively fruit and accessibility. Buon Padre (the "good father") is a solid medium-term Barolo for a fatty lamb dish.