The Ceretto 2015 Barolo is a great wine to pair with fassona, the famous beef from this region, or any other typical Piedmontese meat dish. This is the so-called base Barolo, or classico, that is designed to be an expression of the Nebbiolo grape more than any single-vineyard cru. The wine is satiny and silky with fine texture. Producers hate this "base" descriptor, because it implies an inferior product to a cru. Don't be misled: This is a Barolo-lover's Barolo. It's a true gem and an extremely elegant creation, and with 54,000 bottles produced, there is enough to go around.

Camphor, new leather, sunbaked soil and the merest whiff of game appear in the glass. On the linear palate, polished tannins and fresh acidity accompany juicy sour cherry, pomegranate, star anise and espresso. Drink 2020-2027.