The 2018 Chardonnay Lowengang captivates with its understated yet deeply layered bouquet, as sweet smoke blows off to reveal ripe peaches complemented by a mix of curry leaves and fresh vanilla bean. This is silky and elegant in texture, yet not weighty in feel, as contrasting notes of lemon oil and granny smith apple give way to an enriching air of confectionary custards. It leaves a concentration of tart orchard fruits and salty minerals to linger, while finishing remarkably long, but also fresh. There is simply so much going on in this glass and only more to come through medium-term cellaring. The integration of oak is spot-on. This is Italian Chardonnay done right.

The organic and biodynamic Alois Lageder 2018 Chardonnay Löwengang offers a medley of ripe fruit and apricot with soft spice and toasted cinnamon. Aged mostly in barrique and some larger wooden barrel, the oak is well balanced overall, owing more to the textural richness of the mouthfeel, as well as to the warm and toasted notes that appear on the bouquet. There is plenty of soft fruit to flesh it out. This wine is prime for a generous 10-year drinking window.

A playful accent of toasty spice on the nose and palate enriches the glazed apple, pastry cream, baked pineapple and chopped hazelnut flavors in this concentrated white, while lemony acidity keeps this lightly mouthwatering and harmonious. Medium-bodied and elegant overall, with a tang of salinity on the lasting finish. Drink now through 2033. 2,900 cases made, 65 cases imported.