Hints of smoked hazelnuts and gun flint introduce this richly concentrated, supple wine. Matured in a combination of 35% oak and 65% stainless steel, it's full bodied and unctuous, bolstered by a pulsating core of ripe yellow cherry and apricot flavors. Anchored by steel and a vibrant acidic edge, the wine should drink beautifully through 2040.

The 2019 Chablis Vaillon 1er Cru has a gorgeous, intense bouquet of orange blossom, lemon verbena and light flinty scents, all beautifully defined. The palate is well balanced: quite extravagant for a Vaillon, yet tensile and edgy. It fans out wonderfully on the finish. Excellent.

A bright, apple- and floral-flavored white, with crisp acidity keeping it focused. Though ripe, this leaves a juicy impression. Drink now through 2024. 2,500 cases made, 500 cases imported.