A firm and focused Champagne, with a subtle overtone of minerally smoke and brine. Lacy in texture and finely knit, this offers layers of yellow apple and pear fruit, marzipan, lemon preserves and aromatic accents of toast and white flowers. Creamy and mouthwatering on the lingering finish. Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Drink now through 2032. 450 cases imported.

With the 2012 Brut Millésimé, Henriot's positive evolution begins to become apparent. A blend of 54% Chardonnay and 46% Pinot Noir, disgorged with less than six grams per liter dosage, it offers up aromas of citrus zest, white flowers, freshly baked bread and green apple, followed by a medium-bodied, brisk and precise palate. Built around a bright spine of acidity and enlivened by a pillowy mousse, it will take on additional depth and dimension with a few years on cork.

Henriot's 2012 Brut Millesime is a soft, easygoing Champagne to drink now and over the next handful of years. Pastry, baked apple, spice and dried flowers are nicely laced together. This lacks some of the depth typical of the vintage, and yet it is charming and inviting just the same.