Unlike many of Aubert's wines, the 2021 Chardonnay Lauren Estate incorporates four different selections (Hyde Old Wente, Montrachet, Mount Eden and Hudson). From vines planted in 1999 and 2000 on the site of a former orchard, and matured in 80% new French oak, it exudes power yet remains balanced. Hints of pencil shavings mark the nose, joined by effusive notes of lime and white peach, while the palate is full-bodied, rich and slightly oily in feel. Despite a sense of massive density, it remains fresh and lively, with great length and energy on the finish. It's the crowning achievement among a stellar collection of 2021s from Aubert.

The 2021 Chardonnay Lauren is a rich, phenolic wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the Lauren is packed with fruit and structure. Orchard fruit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, sage, and dried pear build into the rich, palate-staining finish. The Lauren has a textural intensity that makes it feel almost like a red wine. Historically, the Lauren has been one of the best agers here.